By Keighley’s Mike Armstrong, an award-winning master baker with a big passion for baking...

HOW do you like your pizzas? Thin and crispy Roman style, soft and chewy Neapolitan ones, or the hefty American versions?

I've never met anyone who didn't like pizza.

This economic migrant from impoverished Naples is the epitome of the American dream – popularised by the Italian community, adapted to suit new world tastes and then exported around the globe, it's the ultimate immigrant success story!

Of course, Italians can't take all the credit for what is quite simply the world's best snack. The linguistic link between pizza and pitta is surely no coincidence; topped breads have been popular around the Mediterranean since classical times.

The modern conception of pizza, however, is largely based on the Neapolitan version – not as the Roman variety, the base should be soft and pliable, yet charred and chewy around the edge. Far from the embarrassment of toppings loaded onto the deep-dish pizza pies of Chicago, the true Neapolitan pizza has a mere whisper of a garnish to set off its freshly-baked charms.

Naples' famous Da Michele pizzeria opened in 1870, with just one thing on the menu: marinara – tomatoes, garlic and herbs.

After Queen Margherita visited the region, 19 years later, it grudgingly expanded its offerings to include the new trend – tomatoes, mozzarella and basil, resembling the colours of the Italian flag: red tomato, white mozzarella and green basil. They named it Pizza Margherita, in honour of the queen. Margherita pizza has grown into one of the most recognisable symbols of Italian food culture in the world.

So how do we make one? The dough is made by mixing water, salt and yeast with ''00'' flour, a very fine flour used in Italian cuisine.

The dough is stretched in a motion going outwards from the centre, pressing with fingers from both hands on the dough ball, and flipping it several times, shaping it into a disc. It is then topped and baked in an oven, which is traditionally made of brick and wood-fired. Pizza Margherita is usually served hot on a plate and not scooped out of a cardboard box.

RECIPE

PIZZA

Makes 2, serves 4

Ingredients:

400g/14oz plain flour

1 x 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon caster sugar

225ml/8fl oz tepid water

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

1 tablespoon semolina, cornmeal or polenta, to roll out

Sauce and toppings of choice

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to the hottest it will go, before starting to make the dough, then put a couple of pizza stones, or 2 large baking trays, to get really hot.

2. Mix the flour, yeast, salt and sugar into a mixing bowl, then add the oil and water to bring together the dough.

3. Knead the dough with a little flour for 1 minute, just until smooth, and set aside while you prepare your pizza toppings.

4. Roll out the dough into two balls and roll out to the size of a large dinner plate using a little flour, ensuring it’s thicker around the edge for a thicker crust.

5. Sprinkle a baking paper-lined baking tray with semolina and spread the sauce and toppings of your choice; don’t add too many, or you will end up with a soggy bottom.

6. Drizzle over a little olive oil and leave to rest for 10 minutes before sliding the pizzas onto the preheated pizza stones; bake for 10-15 minutes until the base is golden crisp.