By Keighley’s Mike Armstrong, an award-winning master baker with a big passion for baking...

EVERYONE knows the old English nursery rhyme about Simple Simon and his pies.

And I have to confess to being a bit of an extreme pie addict at this time of the year.

It's also true to say, living in Yorkshire, that we are a county of cheese lovers.

So for an entire meal that satisfies the appetite, something plain and basic like cheese and onion pie always hits the spot, being the perfect partnership and marriage – a bit like Morecambe and Wise or gin and tonic.

It's one of those combinations that really does work, and in a pie – well, that's two great British traditions rolled into one crumbly pastry case.

This classic northern cheese and onion staple was frequently made and sold in big slabs cut up warm – like the one mum would often bring home from the village bakery for dinner during the school holidays, to keep us going till teatime.

But for those not lucky enough to have regular access to such a guilty pleasure, the answer was to make one at home.

Let's start with the pastry, because frankly that's the most important aspect of any pie. Good homemade shortcrust pastry is the obvious choice for most, being light and crumbly. However a packet of ready-made shortcrust pastry makes an interesting contrast with the cheesy filling if you're in a rush.

The cheese in my experience is generally a crumbly lactic cheese, and up north we like our strong cheddar or the creamy texture of the Lancashire.

Onions should be the straightforward bit of the pie. Simply simmer a white onion in the frying pan with a little oil until soft and tender – which will make them nice and juicy, an added bonus for the drier cheeses – or simply boil with the potatoes.

The spuds must however have a very northern plainness about them, cut into small chunks, adding a knob of butter, but do season well with a little white pepper when cooked – or maybe add the tangy heat of mustard powder, without overwhelming it. A little grated cheese can also be added to the pastry if homemade.

Go on, say cheese, be a rebel and boil some spuds this week – Simple Simon bids you all ''adieu''.

RECIPE

CHEESE AND ONION PIE

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3 large potatoes, peeled and cut chunky

1 large white onion, chopped chunky

200g/7oz cheddar cheese, grated

Knob of butter

Salt and white pepper to season

454g/1lb homemade shortcrust pastry, adding 50g Cheddar cheese to the recipe, or shop bought without

Method:

1. Peel the potatoes and onion and cut them into small chunks, and boil in salted water in a large saucepan or microwave till fork tender.

2. Drain the potatoes and onion and add a knob of butter; allow to cool fully in the pan.

3. Stir in the cheese with a wooden spoon till incorporated, adding a good pinch of white pepper.

4. Divide the pastry in half and roll out one piece to overhang an 8’’ Victoria sponge tin or similar ovenware container, then spread out

the cheesy filling until smooth.

5. Moisten the edges with a little milk, roll out the lid so it overlaps then using a sharp knife trim off the excess pastry from the edges, crimping the side.

6. Prick the lid of the pastry with a fork all over and brush with milk, decorate if you wish with the pastry trimmings and bake in a preheated oven at 180C/160C fan/Gas Mark 4 for 40/50 minutes or till a golden pie crust.