By Jonathan Smith
I ENJOY one-way walks, and the excellent Settle to Carlisle Railway offers many opportunities for these.
On this nine-mile walk from Dent Station to Ribblehead there are lovely views of Upper Dentdale, a detour to three viaducts and an ever-changing perspective of the Yorkshire Three Peaks. Being shorter days now it avoids the often dark valley bottoms.
From a practical point I prefer parking at Ribblehead and then taking the train to Dent Station and walking back. It is always advisable on one-way walks to take the transport first. In addition there is also a fine pub at Ribblehead to finish the day. It is perfectly possible, however, to do the walk in reverse.
At present there is a train at 9.06 and 10.38 (but please check). The journey takes 10 minutes and on arrival at Dent Station you are at the highest station in England. Do not expect to see a village nearby, though, Dent itself is four miles away. The station itself is very picturesque. On meeting the moor road turn right/uphill and follow it for one mile to a signed lane on your right (which also has some limited parking).
The wide track contours Great Knoutberry Hill. It starts south and eventually swings east during the two miles. This leads to an obvious junction of paths (complete with signpost). The path has superb views down Dentdale, a picture perfect dale from this angle. In addition, the track passes the remains of coal mines and limestone quarrying. The special hard limestone of the area was used during the 19th century to make marble, a surprising building material that became popular and famous for a while – apparently Queen Victoria had a Dent Marble fireplace.
An alternative route to the cross roads is to climb Great Knoutberry Hill, accessed on open hillside just after a wall half mile from the start of the bridleway. It is a 500 feet (160m) climb to the summit of one of the best of the ‘Dales 30’ mountains. Return on a faint path to the cross roads due south from the summit. From the cross roads to the south of Great Knoutberry take the path turning soon in to a track heading south.
After an easy and short climb the path skirts the higher land of Wold Fell on the east side and has excellent views down Widdale towards Wensleydale. This is the Pennine Bridleway and soon starts to head downhill towards Newby Head. After one mile of gradual descent the track meets a quiet road (leading back in to Upper Dentdale). Turn right down the road for 500m to a signpost to a bridlepath heading south (on your left).
The path is reasonably flat but passes over rougher ground and is often wet. After two-thirds of a mile the path passes some grouse butts. After these continue for one-third of a mile and when the path splits take the south/right fork (leaving the bridlepath) and carry on a footpath alongside a wall.
After a further two-thirds of a mile the path turns left, continuing alongside the wall as it drops down to a farm track at Winshaw Farm and soon to a road. Turn right at the road and follow it for one and a half miles to Ribblehead, leaving time for a visit to the viaduct and the pub.
One alternative (marked on the map) visits both Arten Gill and Dent Head Viaducts. Both of these are superb in their own right but does entail a 250 metre drop (and a mile and a half extra) in to the valley of Upper Dentdale. The decision is made at the junction south of Great Knoutberry Hill. At the valley floor (just past Arten Gill viaduct) continue left up the road past Dent Head Viaduct to meet the main route at the bridlepath heading in to the rougher ground. Both options are enjoyable.
Fact Box:
Distance: Roughly 9.5 miles.
Height to Climb: 350m (1,150 feet)
Start: SD 764875. This marks the start of the walk from Dent Station after taking the train from Ribblehead.
Difficulty: Medium/Hard. The paths are good and but pass through some remote lands, or at least they feel that way in any cloud.
Refreshments: The Station Inn at Ribblehead marks the start and finish of the walk. Be Prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer OL2) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass. You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk. Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.
Jonathan is the owner of Where2walk, a walking company based in the Yorkshire Dales:
• He has written 3 books on walking in the Dales; ‘The Yorkshire 3 Peaks’, ‘The Dales 30’ mountains and the ‘Walks without Stiles’ book. All these books (and more) are available direct from the Where2walk website making an excellent Christmas gift.
• Jonathan also runs Navigation Courses (for Beginners and more Advanced) and a series of Guided days in the Dales including the popular ‘Dales 30’ Weekenders. The 2025 dates are now available on the website.
Where2walk.co.uk features 100s of walks with descriptions across Yorkshire and beyond, from easy strolls to harder climbs. Visit the website for details of all these walks, guiding days and navigation courses.
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